Lawn care 1.4 – gtg
Luther Burbank has been quoted as the source of the saying, “A weed is any plant growing in the wrong place”. Yet with a small shift in perspective we can often change our definition to a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered. Those plants that we call weeds can often have many useful functions- many are edible, medicinal, attract wildlife, increase biodiversity, provide valuable information about the condition of our land (eg, nettles (Urtica diocia) indicate a fertile soil, while the presence of horsetail (Equisetum arvensis) suggests poor soil and waterlogging) or can act as ‘dynamic accumulators’, bringing up and making available deficient nutrients from the subsoil with their roots. As A.W. Hadfield states; “We could never for long be free of them, and we would be the poorer without them” (from the introduction to How To Enjoy Your Weeds, Muller Press, 1969). However, weeds can also compete with our productive crops, and given half a chance will quickly return cultivated land to a wilderness state.
By their very nature, and the fact that these are the plants that are naturally adapted to local conditions, weeds tend to thrive at the expense of our more refined edible or ornamental crops. They provide competition for space, nutrients, water and light, although how seriously they will affect a crop depends on a number of factors. Some crops have greater resistance than others- smaller, slower growing seedlings are more likely to be overwhelmed than those that are larger and more vigorous. Onions are one of the crops most susceptible to competition, for they are slow to germinate and produce slender, upright stems. Quick growing, broad leafed weeds therefore have a distinct advantage, and if not removed, the crop is likely to be lost. Broad beans however produce large seedlings, and will suffer far less profound effects of weed competition other than during periods of water shortage at the crucial time when the pods are filling out. Transplanted crops raised in sterile seed or potting compost will have a head start over germinating weed seeds.
Weeds also differ in their competitive abilities, and can vary according to conditions and the time of year. Tall growing vigorous weeds such as fat hen (Chenopodium album) can have the most pronounced effects on adjacent crops, although seedlings of fat hen that appear in late summer will only produce small plants. Chickweed (Stellaria media), a low growing plant, can happily co-exist with a tall crop during the summer, but plants that have overwintered will grow rapidly in early spring and may swamp crops such as onions or spring greens.
The presence of weeds does not necessarily mean that they are competing with a crop, especially during the early stages of growth when each plant can find the resources it requires without interfering with the others. However as the seedlings’ size increases, their root systems will spread as they each begin to require greater amounts of water and nutrients. Estimates suggest that weed and crop can co-exist harmoniously for around three weeks, therefore it is important that weeds are removed early on in order to prevent competition occurring. Weed competition can have quite dramatic effects on crop growth. Harold A Roberts cites research carried out with onions wherin “Weeds were carefully removed from separate plots at different times during the growth of the crop and the plots were then kept clean. It was found that after competition had started, the final yield of bulbs was being reduced at a rate equivalent to almost 4 per cent per day. So that by delaying weeding for another two weeks, the yield was cut to less than half that produced on ground kept clean all the time.” (The Complete Know And Grow Vegetables, Bleasdale, Salter and others, OUP 1991). He goes on to record that “by early June, the weight of weeds per unit area was twenty times that of the crop, and the weeds had already taken from the soil about half of the nitrogen and a third of the potash which had been applied”.
Perennial weeds with persistent underground stems or bulbils such as couch grass (Agropyron repens) or buttercup (Ranunculus repens) are able to store reserves of food, and are thus able to grow faster and with more vigour than their annual counterparts. There is also evidence that the roots of some perennials such as couch grass exude allelopathic chemicals which inhibit the growth of other nearby plants.
Weeds can also host pests and diseases that can spread to cultivated crops. Charlock and Shepherd’s purse may carry clubroot, eelworm can be harbored by chickweed, fat hen and shepherd’s purse, while the cucumber mosaic virus, which can devastate the curcubit family, is carried by a range of different weeds including chickweed and groundsel.
However, at times the role of weeds in this respect can be over-rated. As far as insect pests are concerned, often the species that live on weeds are not the same as those that attack vegetable crops; “Tests with the common cruciferous weeds such as shepherds purse have shown that they do not act as hosts for the larvae of the cabbage root fly. One exception was found to be the wild radish, but this is not usually a weed of established vegetable gardens” (Roberts, The Complete Know And Grow Vegetables). However pests such as cutworms may first attack weeds then move on to cultivated crops.
While charlock, a common weed in southeastern USA, may be considered a weed by row crop growers, it is highly valued by beekeepers, who seek out places where it blooms all winter, thus providing pollen for honeybees and other pollinators. Its bloom is resistant to all but a very hard freeze, and even that will only kill it back briefly. By feeding an array of pollinators during a seasonal dearth, it can redound to the farmer’s advantage. Many weeds are likewise highly beneficial to pollinators.
Methods
Knowing how weeds reproduce, spread and survive adverse conditions can help in developing effective control and management strategies. Weeds have a range of techniques that enable them to thrive;
Annual and biennial weeds such as chickweed, annual meadow grass, shepherd’s purse, groundsel, fat hen, cleaver, speedwell and hairy bittercress propagate themselves by seeding. Many produce huge numbers of seed several times a season, some all year round. Groundsel can produce 1000 seed, and can continue right through a mild winter, whilst scentless mayweed produces over 30,000 seeds per plant. Not all of these will germinate at once, but over several seasons, lying dormant in the soil sometimes for years until exposed to light. Poppy seed can survive 80-100 years, dock 50 or more. There can be many thousands of seeds in a square foot or square meter of ground, thus and soil disturbance will produce a flush of fresh weed seedlings.
“Stale seed bed” technique
One technique employed by growers is the ‘stale seed bed’, which involves cultivating the soil, then leaving it for a week or so. When the initial flush of weeds has germinated, the grower will lightly hoe off before the desired crop is planted. However, even a freshly cleared bed will be susceptible to airborne seed from elsewhere, as well as seed brought in by passing animals which can carry them on their fur, or from freshly imported manure. The organic solution to the problem of spreading annual weeds lies in regular, properly timed weeding, preferably just before flowering (fortuitously, this is also the time at which they will be of the most value in the compost heap). This technique is also quite often used by farmers who let weeds germinate then return the soil before crop sowing.
Perennial weeds also propagate by seeding; the airborne seed of the dandelion and the rose-bay willow herb are parachuted far and wide. But they also have an additional range of vegetative means of spreading that gives them their pernicious reputation. Dandelion and dock put down deep tap roots, which, although they do not spread underground, are able to regrow from any remaining piece left in the ground. Removal of the complete tap root is the only sure remedy.
The most persistent of the perennials are those that spread by underground creeping rhizomes that can regrow from the tiniest fragment. These include couch grass, bindweed, ground elder, nettles, rosebay willow herb, Japanese knotweed, horsetail and bracken, as well as creeping thistle, whose tap roots can put out lateral roots. Other perennials put out runners that spread along the soil surface. As they creep along they set down roots, enabling them to colonize bare ground with great rapidity. These include creeping buttercup and ground ivy. Yet another group of perennials propagate by stolons- stems that arch back into the ground to reroot. Most familiar of these is the bramble.
All of the above weeds can be very difficult to eradicate- thick black plastic mulches can be effective to a degree, although will probably need to be left in place for at least two seasons. In addition, hoeing off weed leaves and stems as soon as they appear can eventually weaken and kill the plants, although this will require persistence in the case of plants such as bindweed. Nettle infestations can be tackled by cutting back at least three times a year, repeated over a three year period. Bramble can be dealt with in a similar way. Some plants are said to produce root exudates that suppress herbaceous weeds. Tagetes minuta is claimed to be effective against couch and ground elder, whilst a border of comfrey is also said to act as a barrier against the invasion of some weeds including couch.
Use of herbicides
The above described methods of weed control avoid using chemicals. They are often used by farmers. However, these methods may damage a fragile soil by destructuring it, hence are not always used. They are those preferred by the organic gardener or organic farmer.
However weed control can also be achieved by the use of herbicides. Selective herbicides kill certain targets while leaving the desired crop relatively unharmed. Some of these act by interfering with the growth of the weed and are often based on plant hormones. Herbicides are generally classified as follows;
Contact herbicides destroy only that plant tissue in contact with the chemical spray. Generally, these are the fastest acting herbicides. They are ineffective on perennial plants that are able to re-grow from roots or tubers.
Systemic herbicides are foliar-applied and are translocated through the plant and destroy a greater amount of the plant tissue.
Soil-borne herbicides are applied to the soil and are taken up by the roots of the target plant.
* Pre-emergent herbicides are applied to the soil and prevent germination or early growth of weed seeds.
In agriculture large scale and systematic weeding is usually required, often by machines, such as liquid herbicide sprayers, or even by helicopter, to eliminate the massive amount of weeds present on farming lands. However there are a number of techniques that the organic farmer can employ such as mulching and carefully timed cutting of weeds before they are able to set seed.
Wood
Besides those kinds of weeds which are of a herbaceous nature, there are others which are woody, and grow to a very considerable size; such as broom, furze and thorns. The first may be destroyed by frequent ploughing and harrowing, in the same manner as other perennial weeds are. Another method of destroying broom is by pasturing the field where it grows with grazers.
The best method of extirpating furze is to set fire to it in frosty weather, for frost has the effect of withering and making them burn readily. The stumps must then be cut over with a hatchet, and when the ground is well softened by rain it may be plowed up, and the roots taken out by a harrow adapted to that purpose. If the field is soon laid down to grass, they will again spring up; in this case, pasturing with grazers is an effectual remedy. The thorn, or bramble, can only be extirpated by ploughing up the ground and collecting the roots.
In June, weeds are in their most succulent state, and in this condition, after they have lain a few hours to wither, cattle will eat almost every species. There is scarcely a hedge, border, or a nook, but what at that season is valuable.
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You can greatly improve the look and value of your home by enhancing your landscape. The truth is that learning proper landscaping can require effort and time. You do need to conduct serious research before you start landscaping. This article is a great place to start in your researching efforts, as it contains some tricks of the trade that landscapers across the country have used with success.
When choosing plants and shrubs for your landscape project, the climate should be taken into account. Don’t feel tempted to try plants that thrive in conditions your climate does not offer. Average sun exposure, rainfall, and prevailing winds are other climactic factors you need to take into consideration when you pick out plants.
As you plan out to create your landscape, make sure you make room for your plants to grow. While a small tree might look amazing next to a house, you have to consider the growth of its roots towards your foundation or it’s canopy into your eavestroughs. Find out the full-grown size of any plant you choose to ensure that your yard looks its best when the plants have matured.
Choose plants wisely since they can affect the outcome of your landscape project. You don’t want to use plants that require a lot of sunlight in shady areas. You want to avoid planting bigger trees in small growth areas. Take the time to consider the needs of your plants and plant them in a place that they’ll thrive.
Think beyond just plants. When coming up with a landscape plan for your yard, it’s simple to only put your focus on plants or flowers that will bloom. However, don’t forget any non-living accents either. A few examples include pottery, scattered rock, seating and bird fountains, all of which can give your landscaping life no matter the season.
Make sure you put things in the right places when you start landscaping. Be certain that you are placing everything in the optimal locations for their ultimate vitality and health. You should consider the amount of shade, light, and wind the plants will be exposed to, as well as the weather in your area.
If you are considering hiring a professional to do your landscaping, be sure to check references carefully. Though price is certainly one aspect of your decision making process, having the opportunity to speak with former clients and see pictures of finished products might influence you too.
Do the work on your yard in different phases. If you section your plantings into small segments around your lawn, you can get the same effect, while spending much less money for plants. You could make the choice to work on different sections or focus on different types of plantings.
Use curved borders around your plantings when you are landscaping your yard. In most cases, sinuous, winding borders will look more appealing than rigid, straight ones do. They also add a softness in contrast to the angles and lines of your home and driveway.
Get advice from a professional before beginning your next landscaping project. Although landscape architects may seem expensive, they can save you both time and money. Even an hour-long session with a pro is often enough start your project off on the right foot.
Ground cover is expansive, appealing and usually pretty low maintenance. Ground cover plants like vinca and phlox add beauty but they also deter weeds and minimize the area that needs frequent mowing. Also, they increase your landscape’s depth, color and dimension.
Ideally, this article provided some great ideas to help you create a beautiful landscape. Remember these techniques and start using them right away. In no time your home will be looked at by others with envy because of your great landscaping skills.
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Do you find your yard disturbing? Do you talk about it in other, more colorful ways? Are your neighbors unwilling to come to any party you are hosting in your backyard? Well, you can get your yard into shape with the advice in this article. Rather, read the information in this article to help your landscape look more appealing to everyone around.
Choose plants native to your area to plant in your yard. Native plants are comfortable in the soil and climate of your region, so they are easier to maintain. This makes for a low-maintenance component to your yard. You can research native plants in your area by going to your local home and garden store.
If you are installing an outdoor kitchen on your property, you should try to use granite for most of your surfaces. Even though granite tends to be a bit more expensive than marble or other options, it tends to be more durable and easier to maintain.
Trying to work on the entire landscape at once is difficult and overwhelming. It is great to separate the project into different phases, and that will be much better for your budget. You will also be able to make any changes that you think of without having to re-do the whole project.
Be creative and use several plant types in your landscape design. Doing so can help protect your landscape design in case of disease or insect infestation. If your plants are varied, they won’t all be susceptible to the same harmful agents. Plant health can often depend on diversity when you are planning your yard.
Get professional advice before starting a landscaping project. While you may not need them to do everything for you in regards to your landscaping, their advice can help you avoid mistakes that will cost you later on down the road. Talking with an expert is particularly important if you have no landscaping experience.
For plenty of color at a reasonable price, consider using wildflowers in your garden. They are readily available, even at a mass merchandiser, and can thrive in even the most inhospitable of areas. This will produce a bounty of colorful, beautiful flowers. They can be made into beautiful bouquets.
Use borders that are curved to surround your plants. Curved borders add more interest to a standard home than straight borders. These curved lines can add to your curb appeal by softening the defined lines of your home, garage and driveway.
Foliage plants, and evergreens will give an impression of continuity to your project. Many plants only bloom for a short time each year so choosing a variety of plants to bloom throughout the year is important. Evergreens and foliage can offer a greenery throughout the year.
Anyone wishing to landscape their property with limited funds should remember that it is not necessary to do everything at once. Breaking it up into smaller chunks can make the process simpler. This actually can make it more financially feasible. Just write down each step in your process, and then choose the ones that are most important to finish first.
Any form of landscaping, whether it’s simply adding a few shrubs and flowers, or giving your garden a complete makeover, will greatly improve the look of your home. You will be envied by your neighbors by sprucing up your landscaping. You can get started right away with your landscaping masterpiece by using the advice given to you here.
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Soil testing should be performed on every lawn. Homeowners can do soil testing themselves with soil testing kits or can hire outside companies to do soil testing for them. Soil testing helps with lawn care tremendously. In many areas, County extension offices can provide soil testing services for a minimal charge. Soil testing is needed before fertilization of any lawn or garden. Soil tests tell you about the nutrient levels and pH levels of the soil which affect plant growth.
What is soil testing?
Soil testing is the process of analyzing the nutrients in the soil sample.
Why do people do soil testing?
The purpose of soil testing is to determine the type and amount of fertilizer needed for lawn care. Periodic soil testing gives homeowners the necessary information for them to maintain a healthy lawn or garden.
The importance of soil testing
Without soil testing, you will have to guess what fertilizers and how much to use on your lawn. Soil testing helps avoid using too much fertilizers or too little. This helps keep the cost of lawn care low as well as help the environment.
Negative effects of using too much fertilizers
Using too much fertilizers is harmful for your lawn and garden. When it rains, the rain also washes excessive fertilizers off your lawns, polluting the water which ends up in nearby lakes and streams. Excessive nutrients from fertilizers also promote algae growth in streams, threatening wildlife.
What can soil testing tell me about my lawn or garden?
Soil testing will answer the following questions:
what nutrients does my soil need?
what type of fertilizer should I use on my lawn?
How much fertilizer should I use on my lawn?
How often should I fertilizer my lawn?
What doesn’t soil testing tell me?
Soil tests’ results will not tell you about:
insect populations
diseases
drainage issues
pesticides
other chemical levels
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Tree topping is very commonly done as a way of pruning. However, tree topping actually harms trees. Nowadays, tree topping is an unacceptable pruning technique. There are many alternative ways to pruning other than tree topping. Research has shown many harmful effects of tree topping to trees. In many areas, topping a pine tree, topping a white pine tree or topping Queen palm trees are very common practices. Let’s discuss tree topping, how tree topping works, and the harmful effects of tree topping.
Topping a tree has many harmful effects. Firstly, leaves are sources of food of trees. Without enough branches and therefore leaves, trees are vulnerable to starvation, attack by insects and other diseases. Some trees die after tree topping. Others kick in survival mechanism to quickly grow more branches. These emergency branches after tree topping make the trees look disfigured and unnatural.
Why is tree topping hazardous?
Tree topping is hazardous, not only to the tree but also to humans. For trees, tree topping leaves them weak and prone to diseases, infections, and decays. Topping a tree is like inflicting wounds on a healthy tree, leaving it to bleed and vulnerable to any attacks that comes its way.
To humans, trees that underwent topping and survive grow emergency branches in order to provide food for survival. These branches are grown so fast that they are not the strongest. Most of the emergency branches will break off in high wind or rain. While normal tree branches develop in sockets of overlapping wood tissues, new emergency tree branches are anchored only in the outermost layers of the parent branches. This make them easy to break off and could injure anyone nearby.
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