Success depends on several variables. Whether you want to start a lawn-care company or improve your present lawn-care business, certain guidelines will help you achieve success.

1 Research your market and define your business

The name of the game for any business is finding customers, signing them up and maintaining a long-term relationship with them. Maybe you just need a few more customers to make the jump to a full-time lawn-care business. Or, maybe you want to expand your company or add customers to cover attrition. Either way, you need to identify customers that best match your business. To do that, ask (and find answers to) questions like these:

What kinds of weekly, monthly and seasonal services are needed in your area?

What services do your competitors offer that you don’t?

What services do you offer or want to offer that your competitors don’t?

What is the pricing range and revenue potential for those services?

How many customers in your area are candidates for your services?

How many customers do you have, and what is their size and location?

Will your competitors go after your current or potential customers?

Do your present customers have the potential to increase your level of services?

Will your targeted customers need different services in the future?

How will you attract new customers?

Some businesses “shop” their competition to determine the pricing in their market and other pertinent information. You can also call on professional trade organizations for help in translating your area’s demographic information into potential revenue projections.

2 Match equipment to your services and customers

You’ve defined your business in terms of the services needed in your area and your revenue goals. The next step is to match those goals, services and capabilities with the right mix and number of customers, schedules, equipment and personnel requirements.

Finding the combination of all of those variables that will best help you to reach your revenue goal is not easy, but it is crucial. Having the wrong equipment can kill a business. As soon as you chose our equipment based on what we needed for our customers — maneuverability, ability to trim close and a quality cut — our business immediately became more efficient and profitable. The right mowers cost a little more, but the investment will be returned many times over.

3 Choose between ‘grounds-maintenance system’ or separate equipment

It’s clear that if a piece of equipment costs a little more but is the right choice for your needs, it can yield revenue that more than offsets the additional investment. The same principle applies to buying multi-purpose vs. dedicated equipment.

If your customers are inclined to want “one-stop shopping,” and you want to provide it, then you may need additional specialized equipment for each service you want to offer. Obviously, this will depend on the composition of your clients and how often you perform various services. However, before you buy a stand-alone snow thrower, a separate dethatcher, an aerator or other specialized equipment, you should compare stand-alone equipment with specialized “grounds-maintenance” systems that use the basic power unit to operate a variety of attachments, including mower decks.

Calculate your return on investment by subtracting the initial cost and upkeep of a stand-alone item from its earning potential. Then compare it to the cost of an equivalent system attachment and its earning potential. Whatever your choice, your decision should be based on the return you will get on your investment.

For example, if you spend an additional $4,000 or so for a unit that can accept attachments, this cost may be offset because each attachment will likely cost far less than the initial cost of most stand-alone equipment. Because the power unit central to the system operates each attachment, the system approach eliminates the cost and hassle of maintaining the separate engines in stand-alone specialized equipment. On the other hand, multipurpose equipment may involve swapping attachments and put more wear on a single engine.

It goes back to calculating earning potential. If your customers have you performing a particular service frequently, the earning potential of a dedicated piece of equipment may be quite high, justifying its cost. Conversely, tasks performed less frequently, or perhaps only seasonally, might never pay for a dedicated unit, but would be profitable with a less expensive attachment on a “system.”

4 Present customers, strategic partners offer growth

Your present customers are your best bet for increased revenue because they are already sold on your services. Most customers prefer to receive all services from one company, so carefully study each customer and what additional services you can offer. You can also reward present customers with discounts or other benefits when a friend becomes a new customer.

Consider forming strategic alliances with garden centers, retail stores and other places that sell to the public. Often, they want to offer their customers some help with the seed they just bought, and would welcome a partnership that allowed them to offer this service.

5 Your advertising must target the right customers

If you decide to advertise, be sure to use the best method to attract the kinds of customers you wish to target. If your business is thriving in only one part of town and you would prefer not to have your crews spread out geographically, then you may want to target specific neighborhoods with door hangers and leaflets.

If you are large enough to have teams in place throughout your area and they are only at 60 to 80 percent of work capacity, radio advertising might be an ideal way to fill up your company’s potential for revenue. But “test the waters” first and see what works best. See if your present customers can describe what media they use most, so you will know where to best target your resources.

6 Invest in management software programs

Today, a wide selection of landscape business software programs is available to help you run your business more efficiently. Whether you are a one-person maintenance operation or a full-service installation company with multiple crews, the right software program can boost efficiency in all areas of your business.

Software programs can make your life easier through scheduling the work, billing, collecting and communicating with customers. Some will even print daily route sheets organized in geographical order and can be programmed to include detailed notes about tasks at each location, special instructions from the customer and a detailed list of what equipment the crew will need for the day.

Using a software program can also build consistency into the bidding process. It allows you to avoid many traditional problems that result in underbidding. Labor, overhead, equipment, materials and all the other hidden variables can be included and give you a more accurate bid every time. Such a program also allows you to track your bids and compare them against the actual job so you can continually fine-tune the process.

7 Hire good people and keep them

As the green industry continues to grow, it is getting more difficult to find and keep good help. However, there are intelligent, hard-working people out there. Your challenge is to attract them and keep them. Referrals from present employees are best. They are the lowest turnover category for new hires. Ask your present employees for help, and reward positive results.

Once on the team, share your business goals and philosophy with each team member. Ask team members specific questions about how things can be done better. This will demonstrate that you feel each person is important to the company and assure that they buy into your company’s mission.

Providing uniforms for your team members will help project a professional image and reinforce the perceived value of your services. Don’t be afraid to pay a little more in wages than other companies and your investment will pay off in reduced employee turnover and heightened loyalty. Cash rewards — even small ones — can be important to some, while a day off may mean far more than money to others. Praise employees’ accomplishments but make sure you are sincere in your praise.

Providing the right equipment for the job can have a tremendous effect on productivity. A rider versus a walk-behind might mean the difference between someone who will work hard to attract new business and a person who is just too tired to care. Motivated people who care about their work and the company are careful to follow factory maintenance schedules and keep the machines in top operating condition. Keeping equipment clean and well-maintained isn’t just a way to maximize productivity and get more return on your investment. It projects an image of professionalism that further enhances the perceived value of your services.

8 Retire a mower when it’s time

It’s wise to get rid of a piece of equipment when it’s no longer profitable to keep it. The trick is to know when you have crossed over that line. Many of us have a tendency to look at the purchase price or monthly payment of a new mower and then decide that the cost and hassle of repairing an old mower is worth keeping it around. But this can be deceptive. Of course, the repair bills for the old mower may be (or may not be!) less than the monthly payments of a new mower, but this is an incomplete picture. Down time is extremely expensive. A new mower saves you a great deal in this regard.

Also, don’t forget that mowers are becoming more efficient all the time. An old mower, even in top condition, may be less productive than a newer model with better design. Purchasing a new mower may be an opportunity to upgrade. Thus, increased productivity is yet another factor to balance against the supposed savings of keeping an old mower around.

Whatever aspirations you set for your company, or however you define success, keeping those goals in mind while making your decisions about equipment, personnel and maintenance will allow you to achieve them. Just remember that the marketplace is constantly changing, and you must be able to adapt to those changes. If you continually anticipate change, and choose equipment and methods that are flexible enough to allow you to adjust to change, you and your lawn-care team will thrive.

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Landscape designers design outdoor, and sometimes indoor, areas for both residential and commercial spaces. Designs always include horticulture (trees, flowers, and ornamental plants) but also may include fountains, walkways, fences, ponds, decks, and lighting.

There are various types of designs. They’ may be, used for anything from a small project “renovating a landscape with plants, to a medium project with payers and a wall, to a large project with fountains.”

What the Customer Wants

A landscape designer must first meet with a customer to find out what he or she wants. A preliminary sketch will help the designer stay on the right track.

Meeting the customer’s needs is one of the most critical components of designing a landscape. In fact, in design competitions sponsored by the Associated Landscape Contractors of America (ALCA), it is the most important criterion by which student designs are judged.

It’s what the customer wants and how you translate it. Some people have trouble envisioning things. You must interpret what they want. If you misinterpret something, then you don’t get the job.

Looks Good–But Does It Work?

A landscape designer needs to know what looks good to the customer’s eye, but must also know what works well in a particular environment. Mitchell says you must be able to advise the customer on what works in that geographical area and what doesn’t work.

There is a huge selection of plants. There are all different types of environments. Some homeowners who don’t use a landscape designer may put trees in places where they actually become a nuisance, even though they may look beautiful at first. There are challenges in different areas of the country, depending on the weather.

Maintenance and More

An important aspect of any landscape design is the amount of maintenance it will require once the design is installed. A landscape designer will ask the customer how much maintenance they will want to do. Having good designs to meet the customer’s maintenance expectations is important.

Success with a landscape design also means avoiding problems before they start. You’d better be able to identify funguses, molds, and insects. This knowledge is important to design. Everything is all so interrelated. The best landscaper knows what works in the area. It makes for a better designer.

Presentation Is Everything

Once the design is complete, it must be presented to the customer. There are now software programs that will “age” the design so that the customer can see what the landscape will look like in several years when the plantings are more mature.

Once approved, the project enters the “build” phase. The designer will typically oversee the landscape installation to ensure it is built according to the approved design.

Get Involved Early

You can get involved in landscape design early by looking into organizations such as a local 4-H club or Future Farmers of America (FFA), which promote student interest in agricultural careers. Taking classes in agriculture is also helpful.

Students in high school should check to see it their school has a horticultural program. Some high schools even have greenhouses.

Math courses are also useful to the landscape designer. You have to take a survey and break the site into scale. You have to consider all elevations, like if you’re building steps to a pool apron that’s not there. You have to consider the pitches.

Field Work a Plus

By getting out in the field and doing landscape “build” and maintenance, you may work your way into a landscape design career–if you have the creative ability.

Students out of high school may begin with landscape installation and maintenance and then get to design as part of that business.

I’ve seen some of the best landscape design people come out of the field. We have hired students following a two-year program. They have an inherent talent, a design ability.

Additional Education

In addition to learning by doing, there are programs at colleges, workshops, and certification programs that can help you enter the field.

There is some sort of horticultural program with a design component at most two-year colleges.

There are course opportunities at colleges and seminars. There are all types of horticultural courses.

Architect vs. Designer

A landscape designer is not the same as a landscape architect. They vary in terms of educational requirements and salaries earned. For instance, a minimum of a bachelor’s degree (in landscape architecture) and licensing are required in most states to become a landscape architect.

There is a tremendous opportunity for landscape design in residential areas because landscape architects are more focused on commercial properties and homes above a half a million dollars. Normally designers and architects don’t bump up against each other much.

Never Bored

We believe there is always something new and exciting in landscape design. Landscape lighting, how the property will look in the night, is something new. As trends and demands change, you’ll never be bored.

Gibson says that there are opportunities for landscape designers, such as running your own business or working for public institutions, such as highway departments. Designers can also do public gardening and professional personal gardening for wealthy individuals.

A salary of around $35,000 could be brought in doing this. It is creative and something where you can see what you’ve done.

The lawn maintenance is the bread and butter, but what I love to do is the design.

Growing Strong

People are demanding green space. They have a connection with the earth, and they want a peaceful feeling. Green space is becoming more valuable. Any career associated with the environment is going to flourish.

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How to choose a liquid fertilizer? Learn to read the labels. The attention-getting labels on liquid fertilizer bottles often seem like the late night TV commercials of the gardening world. Competing with myriad packages on nursery shelves, they make every claim imaginable. In addition to basic nutrients, they tout everything from vitamins to hormones, extracts, and secret formulas supposed to give bigger blooms or better-tasting vegetables.

How do you know what’s best for your plants? From fertilizers, plants can receive nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and a variety of micronutrients, including iron, manganese, and zinc. Of these, nitrogen is usually the most important, and for a given price, the fertilizer with more nitrogen is a better value.

Here are some guidelines for choosing liquid fertilizers:

When to use a liquid fertilizer

Liquid fertilizers (or their water-soluble dry counterparts) are valuable for a number of reasons. First, being water soluble, they allow you to get the nutrients down into the root zone–even of established plants–where they are needed. For even quicker uptake of nitrogen and micronutrients, they can be used as foliar sprays. You can apply small quantities of liquid fertilizer with greater precision than you can with dry fertilizer. Dilutions can be easily increased for more frequent, light feedings. Liquid fertilizers are also easy to use and to shore.

Their minus side is that, for large areas like lawn’s and vegetable gardens, the are often difficult and usually uneconomical to apply. In such cases, dry fertilizers are a better buy and easier to use. Also, since all liquid fertilizers are made of dissolved salts, they are more likely to cause leaf burn if you apply too much.

The primary nutrients: it’s nitrogen

Concentrations of primary nutrients–nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)–are expressed in the N-P-K percentages listed on a fertilizer label. For example, a 10-10-5 fertilizer label. for example, a 10-10-5 fertilizer contains to percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphorus, and 5 percent potassium.

Manufacturers often sell fertilizers with certain ratios of nutrients for use on specific types of plants. For instance, mixtures with low percentages of N compared to P and K are often sold as flowering plant food. This is usually done to give the product a unique identity but will have little effect on plant growth.

Of the three primary nutrients, only nitrogen leaches through the solid and needs to be replenished regularly. In fact, most forms of phosphorus and potassium do not move vertically through the soil the way nitrogen does. Instead they are fixed in the top 2 to 3 inches of soil.

By comparing percentage of nitrogen per volume of liquid, you can evaluate the relative cost of two products. For instance, a 16-ounce bottle of 10-2-2 fertilizer contains twice the nitrogen as the same-size bottle of 5-2-2. All other things being equal, it should be twice the value.

The type of nitrogen (listed in the guaranteed analysis on the label) a liquid fertilizer contains may also influence which products you buy. Most liquids contain nitrogen in either ammoniacal or nitrate form, or both.

Ammonical nitrogens, which include urea, are released slowly to plant roots depending on soil temperature, microbial action, and concentration of roots in the container. They also have a gradual acidifying effect on the soil.

Nitrate forms of nitrogen are immediately available to plant roots and are leached quickly through the soil. To give a plant a quick boost, especially if it’s growing in cold soils, nitrate forms are best. For acid-loving plants or maintenance feeding, ammoniacal forms may be better.

Fish emulsion is a liquid, organic form of nitrogen that is also released slowly to plant roots. How fast it can be used depends on soil temperature and microbial action.

When do plants need micronutrients?

The last five years have seen a great increase in the number of fertilizers containing micronutrients, particularly iron, zinc, and manganese. This is probably a result of the increasing popularity of container gardening and the lack of micronutrients in some potting soils.

Most garden soils contain enough micronutrients for healthy plant growth. It is not necessary to apply them unless plants are showing obvious signs of deficiency.

If your container plants are not rich green despite regular applications of nitrogen fertilizer and proper light exposure, select a liquid fertilizer containing chelated micronutrients. Chelating agents hold micronutrients in a form which makes them most available to the plant. They can also be applied effectively as foliar spray.

Seaweed extract is an organic fertilizer that is a source of micronutrients, although it is often expensive.

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Before the invention of mowing machines in 1830, lawns were managed differently from today. Lawns belonging to wealthy people were sometimes maintained by the labour-intensive methods of scything and shearing. In most cases however, they were pasture land, maintained by grazing with sheep or other livestock. Areas of grass grazed regularly by rabbits, horses or sheep over a long period can form a very low, tight sward which is similar to a modern lawn. This was the original meaning of the word ‘lawn’, and the term can still be found in place-names. Some forest areas where extensive grazing is practiced still have these semi-natural lawns. For example, in the New Forest, England, such grazed areas still occur commonly and are still called lawns, for example Balmer Lawn.

Lawns became popular in Europe from the Middle Ages onward. The early lawns were not always distinguishable from pasture fields. It is thought that the associations with pasture and the biblical connotations of this word made them attractive culturally. By contrast, they are little known or used in this form in other traditions of gardening. In addition, the damp climate of maritime Western Europe made them easier to grow and manage than in other lands.

Lawns do not have to be, and have not always been of grass. Other possible plants for fine lawns in the right conditions, are camomile and thyme. Some lawns, if grown in difficult conditions for grasses, become dominated by whatever weeds can survive there; these include clovers in dry conditions, and moss in damp shady conditions.

Maintenance

Maintaining a rough lawn requires only occasional cutting with a suitable machine, or grazing by animals. Higher quality lawns however require a number of operations. These may include:

mowing, to cut the grass regularly to an even height

scarifying and raking, to remove dead grass and prevent tufting

rolling, to encourage tillering (branching of grass plants), and to level the ground

top dressing the lawn with sand, soil or other material

spiking, to relieve compaction of the soil

watering, to prevent from going dormant and turning brown

fertilizing

herbicide and pesticide application to manage weeds and pests

Criticisms

A number of criticisms of lawns are based on environmental grounds

Many lawns tend to be composed of a single species of plant, or of very few species, which reduces biodiversity, especially if the lawn covers a large area. In addition, they may be composed primarily of plants not local to the area which can further decrease local biodiversity.

Lawns are sometimes cared for by using pesticides and other chemicals, which can be harmful to the environment.

Maintaining a green lawn often requires large amounts of water. The use of such large amounts on plants that are often unsuited for their environment puts a strain on water supplies (especially during drought years), requiring larger more environmentally invasive water supply systems. Grass typically goes dormant by turning brown during hot, dry summer months, thereby reducing its demand for water. But this appearance may be unacceptable to the lawn owner.

In the US and some other areas, lawn heights are generally maintained by poorly tuned gasoline push or riding lawnmowers, which use an excessive amount of fuel and contribute to urban smog during the summer months.

Lawns use up vast areas of arable land often obtained through the expropriation of farmers from their land to make room for suburbs in North America.

However, using ecological techniques, the impact of lawns can sometimes be reduced. Such methods include the use of local grasses, using only organic fertilizers, and introducing a variety of plants to the lawn. In addition to the environmental criticisms, some gardeners question the aesthetic value of lawns. One positive benefit of a healthy lawn is that of a filter for contaminants and to prevent run-off and erosion of bare dirt.

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When nitrogen (N) fertilizers are applied during the growing season, many times the type of fertilizer utilized is determined by cost or convenience. With the variety of nitrogen sources available, proper selection of a type that is compatible with the particular soil pH can reduce overall costs in the long run. Improper use over time can result in the need to amend the root zone to compensate for changes (usually lowering) in the pH.

Soil pH in an orchard is often on the alkaline or acidic end of the pH range. When soils are highly acidic, amendments such as limestone or dolomite are best utilized to raise the pH regardless of the source of nitrogen used. A pH range between 6 and 7 is generally best suited for the maximum availability of most important soil nutrients. If a grower continues to apply strongly acid-forming forms of nitrogen to acidic soils, this only aggravates the problem.

Acid Aggravation

Ammonium sulfate is a common and popular fertilizer used in orchards. It also happens to be the most acidifying form of fertilizer per unit of nitrogen. Each pound of nitrogen as ammonium sulfate has the ability to neutralize 5.3 pounds of free lime. Used consistently over time, this can lead to localized areas in the root zone that are acidic enough to reduce the availability of some nutrients, while freeing up others into solution where they may reach toxic levels.

It is the nitrification process that occurs in the soil in the presence of bacteria that results in the lowering of the pH. When dissolved in water, ammonium sulfate releases ammonium (NH4+) and sulfate (SOa ) ions. It is there that the NH4+ is converted to NOs- by the following reaction:

NH4+ + 202-> N03- + H20 + 2H+ It is the release of the hydrogen ions that causes the soil pH to drop.

Not All Nitrogen Sources Are Created Equal

One might ask why all nitrogen sources that have ammonium or break down into ammonium do not result in the same problem. To a degree they do, but to a much lesser extent. Ammonium nitrate, for example, has ammonium and is 34% N as opposed to 21% N for ammonium sulfate.

Why is it that one pound of nitrogen as ammonium nitrate only neutralizes 1.8 pounds of free lime, compared to 5.3 pounds for ammonium sulfate? The reason is that a large portion of the N in ammonium nitrate is derived from the nitrate, which does not contribute to the acidity. The same applies to other common forms of nitrogen. Urea, anhydrous ammonia, and UAN-32 all contain or break down into ammonic forms which do lower the soil pH. However, they either contain less ammonic N per pound of nitrogen or contain nitrate nitrogen. Each of these three products has a similar effect on soil pH as ammonium nitrate. They all neutralize about 1.8 pounds of free lime per pound of nitrogen.

Keep It Balanced

Does this mean that one should not use acidifying sources of nitrogen? The answer is no. It simply means that the grower needs to consider the existing pH and the effect the fertilizer of choice will have on it. Properly amended soils can tolerate it, while alkaline soils can actually benefit from it. They key to remember is that nitrogen is only one component of a balanced nutritional program.

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Due to competing needs for existing water resources, the amount of water available for irrigation is dwindling. Like it or not, we’re going to have to learn to irrigate more efficiently. This is why it is so important to schedule irrigation according to plant needs, not simply according to a clock. The latter is the case with all automatically scheduled irrigation that does not take the weather (sun, wind, temperature), evaporation and transpiration (ET) into consideration.

If you don’t know how well your irrigation system is operating, or how much water is being delivered by each sprinkler in a zone, you should perform an assessment and an audit to obtain this valuable information. You can then use this information to make changes to the irrigation system that will increase efficiency.

Assessing your system

Before you can improve your system, you must determine its inefficiencies and then commit to making the changes needed to bring it up to par. Changes might involve re-spacing sprinklers, reducing pressure, changing nozzles, resizing pipes, repairing or modifying a pumping system, upgrading a controller, adding or recalibrating a weather station, adding flow and metering devices, or other changes that may be needed. Many irrigation systems operate at around 65- to 70-percent water-use efficiency. If you can increase the efficiency by as little as 10 percent, the resulting water savings will be substantial. Water savings at sites we have worked on ranged from 25 percent up to a 72-percent savings for a 24-acre site. The latter has resulted in a substantial saving on their water bill — to date, enough to pay for the audit five times over.

Additional savings can be realized in the form of less electricity for pumping, lower fertilizer needs, fewer system component repairs from reduced operating time and slower plant growth, resulting in less frequent maintenance services.

At one site, we introduced a flow sensor so we could track real flow numbers. This goes a long way in demonstrating the savings that you actually achieve. Another useful device is a dedicated, irrigation water meter. I find that when the actual amount of water used at a specific site (sports field, golf course, commercial site or even a large residential site) is known, the owners or managers are much more ready to adopt conservation practices to reduce the daily, weekly or monthly irrigation volume.

Some metering devices are capable of shutting down the main water supply in case a pipeline ruptures, which is another way to save water.

Auditing your system

One of the main goals of a water audit is to achieve as balanced a system as possible based on economies of scale and return on investment. You would not spend $1,000 to get a $1.00 a year savings. However, you probably would spend $1,000 if that would net you a $500 reduction that year and every year after as long as you operated the irrigation system.

A balanced system applies water as evenly as possible throughout the irrigated zone. An unbalanced system may apply too much in one location, resulting in wet areas, while not applying enough in another location of the same zone, creating dry areas. The result is that you always overwater because you must run the system long enough to meet the requirements of the driest areas.

When considering an audit, it helps initially to actually watch the site’s system in operation. Doing so, you should be able to tell if overwatering is occurring and if you will be able to reduce the usage by a lot or just a little. You don’t want to spend your time — and your client doesn’t want to spend the money — where no substantial reductions will be achievable.

Obtain as much background information as you can. Weather data, historical water use, system layout, components, water source, water meters, controllers, etc. Prearrange with the client permission to operate each zone of the system for about 5 to 10 minutes. On the first visit, run a test program to determine the operational condition of the system prior to the actual audit being performed.

Any significant repairs that affect the performance of the irrigation system must be corrected prior to performing the audit. Otherwise, the increase in efficiency ultimately derived from your audit of the overall system may be overlooked because the savings will be “lost” in the savings from the repairs.

Once repairs are properly completed and the system to be audited is operating to its best level, conduct the actual catch-can test of each zone of the system. If it is windy, reschedule the test: Wind will distort the findings dramatically.

Run the station and flag all sprinklers in that zone.

Record operational pressure at the sprinklers.

Time the rotational speed of rotating sprinklers.

Place graduated-cylinder catchment devices about 2 feet away from each head, and midway between the heads. Make sure to use at least two catch cans per sprinkler by filling in the entire zone watering area as if it were laid out on grid paper, as evenly spaced as possible. Low trajectory sprinklers may require you to dig in the catch device closest to the sprinkler so it does not block the sprinkler trajectory of throw.

Run the test for at least five passes of a rotating sprinkler so that an average of 25 ml (about an ounce) of water is caught in the catch devices. This may take about 5 to 10 minutes per zone, depending on the size of the sprinkler.

Record the data and note any special situations (obstructions, etc.) that may affect the results of the zone’s test.

With your soil probe, take several samples in each zone to determine root-zone depth and soil composition. Note types of plant material within this zone. Also note exposure to sun, shade, wind, and hilly or flat ground, low lying areas, etc.

Computer software is available with which you can analyze the data you collect. A schedule, which is used for determining all other schedules, is created from this data. This is known as a Base Schedule and it usually reflects your average watering month. It can then be adjusted up or down for less or more water, depending on the weather.

Even without the benefit of computer analysis, it’s usually easy to see where large differences in application are occurring. From the readings of each catch device within a zone, you will note which catching device caught the most (wet area) and which one caught the least (dry area). You need to investigate why the variation exists. Start by running the sprinklers again. Are the nozzles different, plugged or damaged? Measure the sprinkler spacings. Are they equal to the others, or are they randomly placed or out of place? Test the pressure. If it varies by more than 10 percent, pipe size could be the problem. Check the as-built to see if pipe sizes were changed from the design.

Once you pinpoint the problem, you need to figure out how to correct it. If you don’t know, then call in experts to assist you in your findings. After your modifications have been completed, you need to retest your system to see if you have achieved the required efficiency changes.

When the system is operating at peak performance, which varies for each system and type of sprinkler, you can then begin fine-tuning your operating schedule to achieve your water savings. But be careful! Fine-tuning involves cutting back on water that your plant material has become accustomed to receiving. The weakest sections of your irrigation system distribution will show up as you cut back on the water. You must slowly reduce the water as your plants increase rooting depth. For some plants, this can take a couple of seasons. As these weak areas show up, study them to see what can be done to improve the coverage within the area without increasing the amount of water applied.

Incorporating sensors

Various types of sensors are available that provide valuable feedback about environmental conditions that could affect irrigation scheduling.

Rain sensor

There are several types of rain sensors on the market. Although they may use various mechanisms, they all do one basic thing: they interrupt irrigation when it rains. In my experience, using rain sensors alone will save about 12 percent of the water that would have been used without a rain sensor. All automatic irrigation systems should have some sort of a rain sensor incorporated during installation or as a retrofit.

Freeze sensor

In northern climates, this device could save you from a nasty legal battle. If an automatic irrigation system still is scheduled to water in the late fall, and you get caught by an early cold spell, a real potential exists for icing up a site. Remember, the only difference between an irrigation system and a snow-making system is the air temperature. At fall shutdown, we may even create snow when we blow the lines out if it is late and cold enough. I suggest at least offering the freeze sensor to your clients so that you have covered your bases in case of bad weather (literally and figuratively).

Wind sensor

A wind sensor shuts down irrigation when the wind exceeds a certain velocity, depending on how you have set it. Wind sensors automatically rest and allow irrigation to start or continue once the wind speed drops. This device helps to ensure that the water you or your client is paying for is going to be of benefit to their landscape and not their neighbor’s.

Portable soil moisture sensor

This device allows you to take actual soil moisture measurements, as a percentage by volume. Plant-water relations is a topic for another article, but suffice it to say that it’s difficult to accurately match irrigation with plant needs if you don’t a have a method of evaluating soil moisture. These sensors make this a much easier task. Being portable, you can make multiple readings in each zone to get a good feel for how wet or dry your soil really is. This can even be helpful in diagnosing specific symptoms, telling you whether too-wet or too-dry soil is a factor.

Automatic soil moisture sensor

Now you can go to sleep knowing someone is paying attention. Or, I should say, something. Soil moisture sensors are available that will shut off the irrigation once the soil is damp enough. Depending on how you have programmed the controller, they can start up the irrigation again once the soil is on the drier side.

As you can see, upgrading an irrigation system to be an effective water management tool can initially involve extensive time and labor and, therefore, can be expensive. My company has performed over 100 audits in the past 7 years with varied results. Golf courses and commercial sites usually have a fairly short payback period. The residential sector is the only market segment where the cost is not easily recovered. The more water a site uses, the bigger the return on investment from an audit. An important point to remember (and make clear to potential clients) when selling audits is that after this efficiency work has been performed, every year thereafter generates savings as long as the system continues to be maintained and operated efficiently.

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A resident living in a garden apartment in Portland, Oregon, where children roll in the grass and run barefoot across lawns in the summer light had a stark realization. A year ago, she realized that whenever the landlord spread lawn-care chemicals on the grass, her six-year-old son lost bowel and bladder control for weeks afterward.

His symptoms came back every time they treated the lawn. They told us it was safe after a day, so I kept him off the grass for a week or two. Michael still got sick. We were ultimately successful in organizing our community to go organic, but we are about to move, and I may face this battle in our new home with new neighbors.

In Portland, where this resident organized teams of weed-pulling parents at her son’s school (with help from a principal who’s an organic farmer), the city has put up billboards that say, “Is Your Lawn Chemical-Free? Maybe It Should Be.”

Each year, Americans apply more than 80 million pounds of chemical products–including herbicides, insecticides and fungicides–to their lawns and gardens.

Homeowners often don’t realize the myriad health hazards associated with lawn-care pesticides sold under such innocuous names as Weed & Feed and Bug-B-Gon. These products contain pesticides such as 2,4-D (linked to non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma) and MCPP (associated with soft-tissue cancers).

People think the government would warn them if these widely sold chemicals were known to damage their nervous systems, harm fetuses or give them cancer. None of these long-term adverse health effects are required by law to be listed on product labels.

“Forty years ago, in the enormously praised and fiercely criticized book Silent Spring, Rachel Carson demonstrated the dangers of pesticides,” says the director of the Urban Environmental Health Initiative at Boston University and author of The Recurring Silent Spring. “Lawn chemical usage has nearly doubled since 1964.”

Pesticides used solely on lawns are not required to undergo the same rigorous testing for long-term health effects as those used on food. No federal studies have assessed the safety of lawn-care chemicals in combination, as most are sold. Because of industry lobbying, the identities of “inert ingredients” are protected as trade secrets under federal law. Pesticides may contain up to 99 percent inert ingredients, some of which are suspected carcinogens, while others are linked to nervous system disorders, liver and kidney damage and birth defects.

“More than 90 percent of pesticides and inert ingredients are never tested for their effects on developing nervous systems,” says John Wargo, director of the Yale Center for Children’s Environmental Health and author of Risks from Lawn-Care Pesticides, a report from Environment and Human Health. “Children are more affected by exposure to such chemicals because they are smaller and their organs are not mature.”

Wargo adds, “Streams and groundwater in the Midwest are contaminated with atrazine, a widely used herbicide linked to sexual mutations in fish and amphibians. Is this the price we pay for green lawns?”

The Natural Resources Defense Council is suing the Environmental Protection Agency for failing to protect the public from environmental and health threats posed by atrazine, which is banned by the European Union. “Atrazine poses a serious cancer risk for millions of Americans,” says Jay Feldman, director of Beyond Pesticides. “Companies, federal and state regulators downplay the hazards of commonly used pesticides.”

Try “natural” alternatives. Chrysanthemum-derived pesticides, diatomaceous earth and boric acid are sold in garden centers. SharpShooter (citric acid) is an effective insecticide. Or make your own solution of three to six tablespoons of dishwashing soap (without degreaser) per gallon of water.

Squirt weeds. Instead of RoundUp, use BurnOut (lemon juice and vinegar) to kill weeds along walkways. And what’s so terrible about clover anyway?

Get rid of grubs. Beneficial nematodes and milky spore kill them.

Choose native plants. Replace grass with ground covers or wildflowers.

Know your insects. Some bugs are beneficial. Ladybugs eat aphids; lacewings eat caterpillars; and praying mantises eat all insects (even each other).

Go organic. Agricultural extensions often analyze soil for a small fee. Organic care nourishes the soil for a lawn that’s naturally luxuriant, disease-resistant and pest-free. 

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If you’re shopping for new outdoor furniture, but are perplexed by the multitude of options available today, the American Furniture Manufacturers Association offers the following quick overview of what’s available in your local stores:

Outdoor wicker

Designed for covered porches and patios, outdoor wicker exudes sophisticated charm and creates a relaxing and comfortable atmosphere. It is a perennial favorite because of its classic good looks and the variety of styles available. Outdoor wicker is usually virgin vinyl woven around a tubular aluminum frame coated in weather-resistant epoxy paint. Although it is water- and fade-resistant, most is not suitable for full exposure to sun and the elements. To maintain its good looks, outdoor wicker should be vacuumed or brushed regularly and hosed down occasionally. Traditional wicker, generally constructed of woven rattan, can be used in enclosed spaces, but won’t hold up as well outside.

Teak

Teak, one of the most-popular woods for outdoor furniture, is hard, stable, durable, and requires little care. As it ages, teak changes color from light reddish brown to a soft silver gray, unless it is treated with a special oil or stain. Because of its natural oil content, teak has built-in protection against rotting and can withstand all the elements, including freezing temperatures as well as sweltering heat and high humidity.

Wrought iron

Wrought iron is heavy and provides excellent stability that is ideal for windy areas. It offers long-lasting, timeless beauty and is elegant, yet sturdy. It is available in a variety of styles, including traditional models with graceful curves and ornate latticework. Although iron can rust, today’s finishing processes protect against chipping, scratching, and corrosion.

Aluminum

Aluminum, one of the most-popular materials for outdoor furniture, is strong, non-rusting, and easy to move from place to place. It holds up well to the elements and requires minimal maintenance. Aluminum is easily cast into a variety of shapes and styles, from simple to ornate. Because cast aluminum is solid, it is generally heavier than extruded aluminum, which has been formed into a tube.

Resin

Resin. Known for its low cost and Wide availability at discount stores, home centers, and supermarkets, resin, or plastic, furniture is available in a variety of styles. It is durable, easy to clean, and very portable, though its light weight makes it less appropriate for windy areas. A strong gust could send your chair into the swimming pool–or your neighbor’s yard!

Outdoor furniture frames

Outdoor furniture frames are generally offered with strap, sling, or cushion seating. Sling, which is great for poolside use, is probably the most popular today. The mesh fabric allows air through, which keeps you cooler and allows for quick drying. Strap seating also works well by the pool. It is comfortable, easy to maintain, and available in lots of colors. Both sling and strap present a sleeker silhouette than cushions.

Cushions

Cushions provide a plusher seating surface for comfort that is more like indoor seating, but require more maintenance than sling or strap. Cushions are generally constructed of foam and polyester fiber batting to inhibit moisture absorption, but they may mildew over time. They require regular cleaning and may need to be replaced after a few years.

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My neighbor Harry looked perplexed as he surveyed his lawn. He fertilized it last week, but rather than growing into a thick carpet of lush green, it was a mottled mix of green, yellow and brown. I had to chuckle. You see, Harry has a drop spreader. It applies fertilizer accurately if you do the job right, but Harry made just about every mistake possible.

Harry has a habit of leaving fertilizer stored in his spreader between applications. I’ve told him not to do it, but he doesn’t listen. “I keep the spreader in the garage,” he tells me. “It won’t get wet in there.”

He’s wrong. Fertilizer can absorb moisture from the air, causing it to cake up like cement and clog the small openings in the spreader that dispense a precise amount with each pass. In Harry’s case, some openings were clogged and others weren’t, which caused an uneven application.

Don’t be fooled into thinking that fertilizer spreaders are self-cleaning or will unclog when fertilizer is run through them. The right thing to do when you have fertilizer or other mixtures caked into openings is to clean it out. A toothbrush or pipe cleaner works well. If possible, don’t use water when you knock out debris. If you do, wipe well and let the hopper air-dry before you put in any fertilizer.

Harry had a different method in mind. He kept bumping the spreader to make it apply more, but that just put a double dose in some areas. The brown patches on his lawn were burn spots left by the over application of fertilizer. The pale green and yellow areas showed where the fertilizer didn’t make it to the lawn.

Most fertilizer bags will help you determine the correct setting for broadcast and drop spreaders. The rate is based on the fertilizer analysis. You will want to put down a certain amount of actual nitrogen. A bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer is 10 percent nitrogen, so a 10-pound bag would contain one pound of nitrogen. If you follow a standard recommendation of applying one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, you would spread 10 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet.

To apply an even amount to the entire lawn, you need to know the size of your lawn. If your lawn is rectangular, measure the length and the width and multiply these numbers to arrive at the square footage. Be sure to subtract spaces occupied by planting beds and trees, using the same formula to figure their area. Subtract the square footage for all of the non-lawn areas to arrive at the total size of your lawn.

Harry’s lawn is 4,000 square feet, so he would need to apply 40 pounds of the 10-10-10 fertilizer to apply one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. The fertilizer bag will tell him what setting to use for his spreader. If he would always use the same fertilizer analysis, he could leave the setting the same. But he doesn’t. About every other month, Harry finds a great deal on a new type of fertilizer, which would be fine if he would just read the label and make the necessary adjustments.

Fortunately, Harry sticks with the same type of applicator. With a drop spreader, the proper technique is to first take two laps around the perimeter of the lawn, with one lap just a wheel width inside of the first. It is important to overlap by a wheel width because a drop spreader applies fertilizer just beneath the openings. If you don’t overlap the wheel patterns, you will leave an unapplied strip that will appear yellowish once the rest of the lawn greens up.

Make application passes parallel to the two strips along the perimeter. Close the hopper with the hand lever when you reach the end of the strip. Then reposition the spreader for the next pass. Walk inside the perimeter pass and open the hopper as you enter the unfertilized area. Repeat until the entire area is covered. Close the hopper when back-tracking over already-fertilized areas.

Broadcast spreaders work differently: a rotating disk spreads fertilizer in a circular pattern in front of the hopper. The greatest amount of fertilizer is spread closest to the hopper, so overlap the edge of the pattern by a few feet for even coverage.

Fill the hopper with just the right amount of fertilizer so you will use it all up. If some is left in the hopper, return it to the fertilizer bag. Be sure the hopper’s openings are free of debris. If some fertilizer is caked on, knock it free with a cloth or soft brush. Often fertilizer hoppers just need to be wiped down with a dry cloth.

If the spreader does become dirty or muddy, wash it down with a hose and then wipe up the excess moisture. Let the spreader dry thoroughly before the next use. A couple of times each season, use some penetrating oil on the moving levers and parts to keep them operating smoothly.

Applying fertilizer is an easy task, if you follow directions. Make sure the spreader openings are clear and that the open-and-close lever operates smoothly before you begin. Then calculate the correct amount of fertilizer, fill the hopper, select the proper spreader setting and walk at a steady, even pace. That’s all there is to it. Water the fertilizer into your lawn and you can look forward to a lush, green carpet.

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A global appetite for crop nutrients has U.S. suppliers hungering for the past.

It’s no secret. Fertilizer material prices have soared, hitting record levels in the spring according to data collected by USDA.

Why is this happening? Fertilizer prices are determined like the prices of most ag commodities. Supply and demand factors in major markets around the world drive the prices American growers pay for fertilizer materials.

Recently, increased global demand has played a large part in placing upward pressure on fertilizer prices. Total world fertilizer demand increased by 13%, or an estimated 20 million nutrient tons. World nitrogen (N) demand grew by nearly 10% and phosphate demand by 13%, while potash demand grew a whopping 25%.

Considering Supply Factors

Supply factors also have played a role in driving up fertilizer prices, particularly for N. Anhydrous ammonia is the source of nearly all the N fertilizer produced in the world. The cost of natural gas accounts for 70% to 90% of the production cost of ammonia. Thus, when U.S. natural gas prices rose significantly, the cost of domestically produced ammonia increased. Average U.S. ammonia production costs doubled as natural gas prices have continued to rise.

Overall, 16 domestic ammonia plants have closed permanently, primarily as a result of the rise in natural gas prices, and an additional five plants are currently idle. As a result, U.S. ammonia production has fallen more than 6 million tons, or 34%, in just five years. Consequently, the U.S. fertilizer industry now relies on imports for nearly 45% of those supplies.

Increased global demand has been the driving factor behind the recent rise in phosphate fertilizer prices. Higher costs for major production inputs, such as ammonia and sulfur, also have placed upward pressure on the prices of the major phosphate materials like monoammonium phosphate and diammonium phosphate.

As a resource-dependent nutrient, potash is produced in only 12 countries. Over 83% of the potash produced worldwide is imported by both producing and non-producing countries to meet their needs.

While other countries impact the potash market, potash market fundamentals begin in North America. Canada is the world’s largest producer and exporter of potash, accounting for one-third of total production and 40% of world trade. Nearly half of Canada’s exports go to the U.S., the largest potash importer.

After years of relative stability, North American potash prices increased significantly. Higher energy prices have added to the cost of producing potash, placing upward pressure on prices. However, the lion’s share of recent potash price increases is due to the 25% growth in global potash demand.

Higher transportation costs have also added to the delivered price of all fertilizer materials.

Still Below Other Inputs

Fertilizer prices are up; however, when you put it in perspective, fertilizer price increases are in line with, and even below, those observed for most other major farm inputs. Despite the significant impact of rising natural gas costs and the large increase in global fertilizer demand, average fertilizer prices stood 58% higher than their previous year’s level, according to USDA. In comparison, prices for farm machinery and seed, along with wage rates, were up approximately 70%, while fuel costs more than doubled over the same period.

Price increases are not a random phenomenon. Fertilizer prices, like those for the majority of agricultural commodities, are impacted by a host of factors, including global supply and demand trends, along with energy prices. The information above is just one example of information gathered and disseminated by The Fertilizer Institute (TFI). We encourage you to contact us for information on our statistical programs or membership in TFI.

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It’s not hard to have a pesticide free lawn. The EPA sums up pesticide needs as follows: “You don’t have to be an expert to grow a healthy lawn. Just keep in mind that the secret is to work with nature. This means creating conditions for grass to thrive and resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests.” This article outlines five uncomplicated steps that will get you to that goal.

Build healthy soil

Grass grows best in a biologically active soil where soil organisms earthworms recycle plant material that nutrients are slowly released the root zone of the grass.

Probably the most important soil-building technique for lawns is fertilization. Public agencies recommend organic fertilizers, including compost, because they release nutrients slowly, are less likely to run off into streams, and support microorganisms that increase soil fertility and fight lawn diseases.

You need to apply fertilizer in the right amounts and at the right time. Most lawn care experts recommend fertilizing lawns three or four times per year. The optimal dates, amounts, and nutrients for your lawn vary depending on your local climate, your soil, and the type of grass growing in your lawn. Ask your county extension agent for advice about how much fertilizer to apply and when to apply it. You should also “let your grass ‘tell you’ when to fertilize based on its appearance.”  “If your lawn is thin and yellow, it needs fertilizer.”

Another important soil–building technique is aeration. Aeration removes cores of soil from your lawn and is used when your lawn has become compacted. A sign that your lawn needs to be aerated is that water puddles or runs off instead of soaking in. Aerating can be done by hand, with an aerifier that looks like an overgrown fork with hollow tines, or you can rent power aerifiers. Aeration should be done in the spring after rain or irrigation has softened the soil. Your goal is to remove soil cores between 3 and 4 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. Leave the cores on your lawn to break down, and leave the holes unfilled.

Mow high, mow often

For each grass species, there is a range of optimal mowing heights. Mowing your lawn at the high end of this range allows the grass to develop a deeper root system and tolerate drought, heat, shade, disease, and pests. Recommended mowing heights are 3 inches for tall fescue, 2 1/2 inches for perennial ryegrass, and 1 inch for bentgrass.

To have a high quality lawn you need to mow frequently when the grass is growing fast. You want to remove no more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades so the grass is not stressed. For example, a perennial ryegrass lawn should be mowed when it gets to be about 3 3/4 inches tall with the mower set to mow at 2 1/2 inches. Weekly, or even more frequent mowing, may be necessary when your lawn grows quickly.

Grasscycling (leaving grass clippings on the lawn when you mow) adds plant nutrients and organic matter to your soil and keeps the clippings out of landfills. It also saves you time! Researchers estimate that grasscycling reduces fertilizer needs by 25 percent. It works best if you mow frequently, when the grass is dry, and with sharp mower blades. Mulching mowers have an extra blade that finely chops and distributes the clippings, but you can use a regular lawn mower for grasscycling just by removing the bag.

Water deeply and less often

Frequent, light watering produces a shallow–rooted lawn. Overwatering leaches grass nutrients, promotes certain weeds, and causes oxygen starvation of grass roots. This means that it’s important to give your lawn the right amount of water.

There are three ways to tell if your lawn needs water. If your lawn is dark green and doesn’t spring back when you walk on it, it needs watering. Or, dig a small hole and look at the soil. If the top two inches are dry, it’s time to water.6 You can also push a six–inch screwdriver into the lawn. If it goes in easily, the soil it still wet. If it takes effort, then it’s time to water. If a lush lawn is not your priority, you can water less often.

Early morning is an efficient time to water.

Remove excess thatch

Thatch is the partially decomposed grass stems, roots, and leaves found between the green part of a lawn and the surface of the soil. If your lawn has about 1/2 inch of thatch, it helps reduce soil compaction and prevents some weeds seeds from germinating. A thicker thatch layer can be a problem because grass roots grow in the thatch instead of the soil and make your lawn less tolerant of drought. Thatch problems are caused by excessive fertilizing and watering, infrequent mowing and frequent pesticide use.

If you need to reduce thatch, you can use a thatching rake. Simply pull it across the lawn and discard the debris. For larger areas, rent a vertical mower (dethatcher). Run the machine across the lawn, then do a second run perpendicular to the first. Rake up the debris and dispose of it.

Spring and fall are the best times to remove thatch.

Keep your expectations realistic

A healthy lawn will probably have some weeds and some insect pests. But the lawn will function well; it doesn’t need to be perfect.

Are there certain areas in your yard that aren’t well–suited to grass? Too shady, for example, or too dry? Consider other options, including native plants. Get ideas from other gardeners or your county extension agent.

Conclusion

It’s not hard to have a healthy lawn that’s also healthy for people, pets, and wildlife. A vigorously growing turf resists pest damage and weed invasion. When you focus on soil building, mowing, and watering, your lawn will grow vigorously. You’ll have few insects, disease, or weed problems, and pesticides will be unnecessary.

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